directions

If this is your place, contact editor to make changes or updates

photos Add New

  • Waiting for a bite: Moonfish baits its hook with fresh possibilities and comes up with mostly winners, if time is not of the essence (photo: Gregg Matthews)

Upload a Photo


Moonfish

Waiting for a bite: Moonfish baits its hook with fresh possibilities and comes up with mostly winners, if time is not of the essence (photo: Gregg Matthews)

Neighborhood: I-DriveUniversal

7525 W. Sand Lake Road
Orlando
Phone: (407) 363-7262

Attributes

Alcohol:
Beer
 
Facility Features:
Smoking Prohibited Wheelchair Access
 
Meals:
Dinner Take Out
 
Menu:
Appetizers
 
Payment Methods:
Amex MasterCard Visa
 
Reservations:
Reservations recommended
 
Ambience:
Kid Friendly
 
Price Range:
$$$
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Review

It isn't often that restaurants go to war over names. But in June, Ron Woodsby, whose company owns the Fishbones chain, took Bonefish Grill to court, claiming their similar name and logo of a fish skeleton was violating trademark and confusing customers.

Then he opens Moonfish, a mile down Sand Lake Road from Fishbones and across the street from his competitor. (A moonfish, by the way, is called "opah" in Hawaii.) And why use "bone" to name a fish spot anyway?

But a lot of thought and effort has gone into the design of the nonbony Moonfish, from the cast-metal opah on the front door to the magnificent art glass in the dining rooms. Everything revolves around fish. Hanging lights over the hectic bar look like little octopuses, and a giant tropical fish tank is echoed in video screens in the rest rooms. Walk around behind the sushi bar to see the catch of the day displayed next to the open kitchen -- clear eyes and bright, firm fish abound.

Don't plan on rushing through a meal at Moonfish; whether it's busy or quiet, things take a very long time. Our server gave new meaning to "wait staff," and the space between courses went way beyond luxurious and into interminable.

But while waiting for a table you can order immaculately prepared sushi like "dancing eel," which combines broiled eel, king crab and avocado, or the "yum-yum" roll of tuna, salmon and fried yellowtail (both $11.95). The expertise of their fish-buyer is evident in these jewels.

Portions are enormous, and when a dish hits the mark, it couldn't be better. A giant steamer full of Prince Edward Island mussels in garlic and white wine ($10.95) is worth the trip by itself. The open, citrus and oak-fired grill does wonderful things to the Oscar mignon, a thick sirloin filet topped with crab and Hollandaise (yes, good steak in a fish house; $20.95).

The "catch" menu changes daily, and lists not only the fish, but who caught it and where -- giving map coordinates. I didn't write down who caught my tilefish ($23.95) but it was a mild and moist one. The "chef's mixed grill," ($21.95) however, gets demerits for whoever picked our oily mahi-mahi and salmon, which were unimaginative choices from such an extensive variety. And serving overcooked shrimp scampi in such environs is practically criminal.

So Moonfish does occasionally miss the mark; still, in terms of the food overall, it turns out to be a lucky entry in the growing number of "concept" restaurants. No bones about it.

 

event list

No events found

 

Comments

Comments powered by Disqus
Login to Orlando Weekly
  1. forget password?
Don't have an account?
Create A New Account
Connect with Facebook

Have a Facebook account? Login using your Facebook account to share your activities with friends.

Create Account
  1. Clicking GO means you agree to our terms
Connect with Facebook

Have a Facebook account? Login using your Facebook account to share your activities with friends.

Connecting to Facebook...

Share this

Share via Email
Share on Facebook
Share